It goes without saying that Chanel's classic flap bag is one of fashion's most iconic styles. Shortly after Karl Lagerfeld joined the label in the mid-1980s, the handbag made its debut. Designed for the modern woman, the Classic Flap featured a more recognizable "CC" twist lock closure and leather woven straps. Its popularity was almost instantaneous, but with fame came concerns of counterfeiting.
In an attempt to limit counterfeits, Chanel began making handbags and accessories with serial number stickers in 1986. Used as a benchmark of authenticity, these serial numbers are attached to the inside of Chanel pieces and indicate when a part was manufactured. Each of these numbers is unique to the bag it is in, and no number is repeated.
NOTE: The serial numbers will match the authenticity card, but they will not help you determine the style/model of the bag. These serial numbers are unique to their item and the card.
When Chanel began using serial stickers, they began issuing authenticity cards, with corresponding serial numbers. These cards have seen slight changes over the years, but have always been a black plastic card with white text and gold borders. Below we have provided an example of a serial number sticker with its corresponding authenticity card.
Although Chanel bags made between 1986 and today are made with serial number stickers and authenticity cards, the stickers can be damaged or removed and the cards can be misplaced. If a Chanel handbag lacks these features, it does not always mark the piece as a counterfeit.
The first serial numbers
The first serial numbers were printed on white stickers with subtle interlocking "CC" logos. Each of these serial numbers has 7 digits printed on a cutout positioned on the left side of the white sticker, while an opaque film encloses the sticker. An example of a vintage bag, produced in the late 1980s or early 1990s, is shown below. The serial number is printed on the cut-out portion of the sticker and is a series 1, indicating that the handbag was manufactured between 1989 and 1991.
In the 1990s, Chanel's serial number stickers began to evolve with much more distinctive interlocking "CC" logos printed on the stickers. The serial number located on the bag below has dark interlocking CCs with an opaque film over the sticker.
The early Series 5 sticker indicates that this bag was manufactured between 1997 and 1999.
Evolution of serial numbers - Series from the end of 5th to the beginning of 2021
Starting with the end of 5 pieces in the series, Chanel continued its anti-counterfeiting efforts by adding additional features to its serial number stickers. The numbers are still printed on a white sticker, but the sticker is now completely covered with transparent tape with gold and blue glitter. These serial numbers are printed on two-layer holographic stickers. The bottom layer is printed with the serial number and incised with an X, making it impossible to remove without destroying the sticker. They feature a gray line that runs vertically along the left margin and a repeating "CHANEL" line with a very small "CC" logo that runs vertically along the right margin.
Below we have included examples of bags ranging from 6 sets to 26 sets:
The Series 6 sticker above indicates that the bag was manufactured between 2000 and 2002.
The Series 9 sticker above indicates that the bag was manufactured between 2004-2005
While the Series 14 bag was manufactured in 2011.
The Series 26 sticker above indicates that the bag was manufactured in 2019.
Additional information to consider about Chanel serial numbers includes:
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Stickers are generally placed on items in two different ways:
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Attached directly to the inner lining
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Most items with a leather interior lining will have the sticker attached directly to the lining.
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Stickers that are attached directly to the liner can be placed with the numbers facing right facing up or upside down.
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attached to a leather tab inside the item
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Serial Number Table
Below we have provided a table with the Chanel serial number format and their corresponding years of production. If you are curious about the year your Chanel piece was produced, use the following table to help you discover the year.
NOTE: Serial numbers 0 to 9 series included 7 digits, while serial numbers 10 series to present include 8 digits.
Today: The Plate
In April 2021, Chanel took an interesting new turn by joining efforts to eliminate counterfeiting. Much like Louis Vuitton's move to radio frequency identification (RFID) microchips and the elimination of date codes, Chanel ended the need for authenticity cards and serial number stickers. Starting with the handbags, their handbags will now include a plaque that matches the color of the hardware with a CC and a combination of seven letters and numbers engraved. Small leather goods will continue to include the authenticity card.
This new system is implemented to deter series removal since removing the plate will damage the bag. With a plaque, this also eliminates the loss of authenticity cards allowing Chanel to have information about the purchase.
